ZR-1 piste

Yes !!!

Bon ça y est j'ai fait ma 1ère sortie circuit de l'année avec mes nouveaux freins DRM et les r888
J'ai l'impression d'avoir changé de voiture, elle est scotchée sur la piste!! Et les freins du pur bonheur
Je voudrais maintenant purger le liquide de freins avec un purgeur, mais je ne sais pas trop quoi prendre, ni même la procédure pour le faire

quelqu'un peut m'éclairer? j'ai vu un purgeur chez oreca qui semble universel, vous en pensez quoi

Pas besoin de purgeur mais quelqu'un qui pompe sur la pédale pendant que tu purges. Dans l'ordre ar.g ar.d puis avt.g et avt.d. Il est aussi recommandé de lever l'avant de la voiture pendant la purge de l'ar.

merci Reynel

C'est pas du plus éloigné au plus près pour la purge ? C'est comme ça que j'ai fait sur la C4
ARD, ARG, AVD AVG ?

Alec a écrit:C'est pas du plus éloigné au plus près pour la purge ? C'est comme ça que j'ai fait sur la C4
ARD, ARG, AVD AVG ?

Il me semblait aussi.

La doc de la ZR-1 donne bien l'ordre que j'ai indiqué......qui te dit que la roue arg n'a pas le plus long trajet de canalisation? C'est idem pour la C4 standard....

je confirme, après vérif sur manuel arg, ard, avg, avd

Ce qui veut dire que j ai mal fait ma purge

Reynel a écrit:La doc de la ZR-1 donne bien l'ordre que j'ai indiqué......qui te dit que la roue arg n'a pas le plus long trajet de canalisation? C'est idem pour la C4 standard....

Désolé de te contredire. Mon service manual de 96 pour C4 "standard" n'indique pas la même procédure...
Pour moi :
A . Right rear = ARD
B . left rear = ARG
C . right front = AVD
D . left front = AVG

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Et bien moi, mon service manual 1990, il dit :
a. Right front
b. Right rear
c. Left rear
d. Left Front
...
Conclusion personnelle : tu fais comme tu veux, çà ne doit pas être bien grave si çà change tout le temps !

Le plus sûre reste une purge avec un appareil à pression constante ce qui laisse la possibilité de le faire dans le sens que l'on veut.
De toute manière ces sens ne servent uniquement qu'a purger les circuits les plus long de façon à avoir moins de liquide à faire couler sur la fin.
Perso avec un appareil type "ARC 50" je fais 2 fois le tour et je vous assure que je n'ai jamais eu aucun souci sur mes purges/ vidanges de liquide de frein.
Après au boulot beaucoup sont fana des appareils à dépression mais moi pas, chacun voit midi à sa porte...

Bref, si les spécialistes ne sont pas d'accord......on ne se mettra pas d'accord non plus.....
Sur ma 92 c'est comme indiqué......pour les autres..........ils font comme ils veulent......

Sur Zr1.net c'est ard, arg, avtd, avtg...

Du doute ne naîtra pas la lumière......
Après vérification et selon différentes sources les trois versions de séquence évoquées ici existent bien......
Celle que j'ai donnée vient du Haynes repair manual 88 à 96.
Celle de Denis est identique au Corvette Service Repair Manual 1990
Le ZR-1 Net serait d'accord avec la solution avancée par Alec.

Qui a raison ??? faites votre choix......

Pas très sérieux tout cela.......

Le Chilton Repair Manual ne donne aucune séquence............

Voici une procédure plus détaillée.
En fait, la séquence dépend de l'année de la voiture et si c'est un LT5 ou pas.

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HOME REPAIR HELP REPAIR GUIDE BRAKES BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM
GM Corvette 1984-1996 Repair Guide
MANUAL BLEEDING
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Bleeding Brake System
Print
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged. If air is introduced into the system at the master cylinder, it may be necessary to bled the entire system. If the disconnection of a fitting or pipe is the cause for air presence in the system, then only the caliper(s) served by that component need to be bled. Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Air in the system can cause the loss of brake operation.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, observing the sequence given in the following procedures. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.


WARNING
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be discarded.

MANUAL BLEEDING


1984-87 Vehicles
See Figures 1 and 2

Fill the master cylinder with the proper type of brake fluid and keep at least one half full during the bleeding procedure.
For 1984-86 vehicles, bleed the brakes in the following sequence: left rear, right rear, left front, right front.
For 1987 vehicles, bleed the brakes in the following sequence: right front, right rear, left rear, left front.
With the proper sized box wrench over the bleeder valve, attach a bleeder tube to the valve and allow the tube to hang submerged in brake fluid in a clear glass jar.





Fig. Fig. 1: Location of the rear brake bleeder valve





Fig. Fig. 2: With a hose over the end of the bleeder valve, and the other end submerged in clean brake fluid, open the valve to bleed the system

Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant fully depress the brake pedal.
Close the bleeder valve and release the brake pedal.
Repeast the 2 previous steps until all air is evacuated. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir as necessary to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder.
Releat the bleeding procedure at all wheels if the entire system is to be bled.
Check the brake pedal for sponginess and, if any is found, repeat the entire bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is achieved.

1988-96 Vehicles
See Figure 3

Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and keep it at least 1 / 2 full of fluid at all times during the bleeding operation.
Deplete the brake vacuum reserve by applying and releasing the brakes several times while the engine is OFF .
On 1992-94 vehicles and 1995 vehicles equipped with the VIN J engine, if the entire system must be bled, the master cylinder prime pipe must first be bled at the hydraulic modulator located in the left rear storage compartment.
Open the left rear storage compartment, then remove the sound insulator pad.
Remove the cap from the modulator bleed screw, then position a box wrench and a short piece of clear tube over the screw.
Position a container and rags to protect the vehicle interior from the brake fluid. Open the bleed screw and allow fluid to flow until all air is removed.
Tighten the bleed screw to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and remove the tubing. Wipe the screw off and make sure it has properly sealed.
Install the sound insulator pad, making sure it covers the entire modulator valve or excessive noise may be heard when the system is operating. Close the rear compartment.

If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, bleed the unit before bleeding the calipers, in the following manner:
Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake line connection at the master cylinder.
Allow brake fluid to fill the master cylinder piston bore until it begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port at the master cylinder.
Connect the forward brake line to the master cylinder and tighten.
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly 1 time and hold. Loosen the forward brake line connection at the master cylinder to purge air from the bore. Tighten the connection to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm), and have the assistant release the pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the sequence, including the 15 second pause, until all air is removed from the bore. Make sure brake fluid does not contact any painted surface.
Repeat the procedure at the rear master cylinder brake line connection.
If it is known that the calipers do not contain any air, it will not be necessary to bleed them.

If it is necessary to bleed all of the calipers, follow the proper sequence:
1988-91 vehicles: right front, right rear, left rear, left front.
1992-96 vehicles: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

After all air is removed from the master cylinder, bleed the individual calipers as follows:
Place a suitable sized box wrench over the bleeder valve.
Attach a clear tube over the bleeder valve and allow the tube to hang, submerged in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid.






Fig. Fig. 3: Proper set-up for bleeding the individual calipers

Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly 1 time and hold. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air from the cylinder. Tighten the bleeder screw to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), and have the assistant slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the sequence, including the 15 second pause, until all air is removed.
It may be necessary to repeat the sequence 10 or more times to remove all of the air.

Rapid pumping of the brake pedal pushes the master cylinder secondary piston down the bore in a way that makes it difficult to bleed the system.

Check the brake pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for an indication of unbalanced pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to correct either of these conditions.
On 1995-96 vehicles, if the proper pedal height and feel is not achieved after the bleeding is completed, you must perform the Auto Bleed procedure, located under the ABS section of this guide. This procedure requires the use of a Tech 1®, or equivalent scan tool.

PRESSURE BLEEDING


The pressure bleeding equipment you use must be of the diaphragm type, which means it must have a rubber diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil and other contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Make sure you are using the proper master cylinder bleeder adapters to avoid damaging master cylinder reservoirs.

1984-87 Vehicles
Install the proper bleeding adapter(s) to the master cylinder reservoirs, Tool J-35690, or equivalent.
Make sure the pressure tank is at least 1 / 3 full of the proper type of brake fluid. The bleeder ball must be re-bled each time fluid is added.
Charge the bleeder ball to between 20-25 psi (140-175 kPa).
When you are ready to start the bleeding procedure, connect the hose to the master cylinder bleeder adapter, and open the tank valve.
For 1984-86 vehicles, bleed the brakes in the following sequence: left rear, right rear, left front, right front.
For 1987 vehicles, bleed the brakes in the following sequence: right front, right rear, left rear, left front.

Have an assistant stroke the brake pedal while pressure bleeding.

With the proper size wrench over the bleeder valve, attach the bleeder tube. The discharge end must hang submerged in a clean container partially filled with brake fluid.
Open the bleeder valve at least 3 / 4 turn and allow the flow to continue until no air can be seen in the fluid.
Close the bleeder valve, making sure it seals.
Repeat the 3 previous steps for the remaining bleeder valves.
Check the brake pedal for sponginess and, if any is found, repeat the entire bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is achieved.
Properly dispose of all of the brake fluid that was removed from the system.
Disconnect the bleeder equipment from the brake bleeder adapter. Remove the adapter, then if any fluid was spilled, make sure to wipe all areas so they are clean and dry.
Fill the master cylinder reservoirs to the proper level, then install the master cylinder diaphragm and cover.

1988-96 Vehicles
See Figures 4 and 5

On 1992-94 vehicles and 1995 vehicles equipped with the VIN J engine, if the entire system must be bled, the master cylinder prime pipe must first be bled at the hydraulic modulator located in the left rear storage compartment.
Fill the master cylinder to the proper level.
Open the left rear storage compartment, then remove the sound insulator pad.
Remove the cap from the modulator bleed screw, then position a box wrench and a short piece of clear tube over the screw.
Position a container and rags to protect the vehicle interior from the brake fluid.
Remove the master cylinder cap and install a suitable compact pressure bleeding adapter, such as tool J 35589, or equivalent.






Fig. Fig. 4: Location of the prime pipe bleed screw-1995 VIN J engine shown

Charge the bleeder to 20-25 psi (140-172 kPa).
Connect a hose to the adapter.
Open the valve on the brake bleeder tank.
Open the modulator valve bleed screw 3 / 4 turn and allow the flow continue until no air is seen in the fluid.
Tighten the bleed screw to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and remove the tubing. Wipe the screw off and make sure it has properly sealed.
Install the sound insulator pad, making sure it covers the entire modulator valve or excessive noise may be heard when the system is operating. Close the rear compartment.
Fill the master cylinder to the proper level and install the cap.

To bleed the hydraulic system, perform the following procedure.

Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, then connect the proper bleeder adapter(s) to the master cylinder reservoirs.
Charge the bleeder to 20-25 psi (140-172 kPa).
Connect the hose to the bleeder adapter tank, and open the valve on top of the tank. Depress the bleed-off valve until a few drops of brake fluid appear. Refer to the accompanying figure for installation details.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If it is necessary to bleed all of the calipers, follow the proper sequence:
1988-91 vehicles: right front, right rear, left rear, left front.
1992-96 vehicles: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Place a proper size box end wrench over the bleeder screw. Attach a clear tube over the screw and let the tube hang submerged in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid.





Fig. Fig. 5: View of the pressure bleeding adapters installed on the master cylinder-1988-91 vehicles shown

Open the bleeder screws at least 3 / 4 turn and let the flow continue, until you can see no air in the fluid. Have an assistant stroke the brake pedal while pressure bleeding.
Close the bleeder screws, and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), making sure they seal.
Repeat the 3 previous steps until all of the calipers have been bled.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Check the brake pedal for sponginess and the "BRAKE" warning lamp for any indication of unbalanced pressure. If either of these 2 conditions exist, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.
Properly dispose of all of the brake fluid that was removed from the system.
Disconnect the bleeder equipment from the brake bleeder adapter. Remove the adapter, then if any fluid was spilled, make sure to wipe all areas so they are clean and dry.
Check the brake pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for an indication of unbalanced` pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to correct either of these conditions.
On 1995-96 vehicles, if the proper pedal height and feel is not achieved after the bleeding is completed, you must perform the Auto Bleed procedure, located under the ABS section of this guide. This procedure requires the use of a Tech 1®, or equivalent scan tool.

Eh bé ! Complet et intéressant.